Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires rewards a few days minimum. The neighbourhoods are distinct enough that where you stay shapes your experience in a way that matters. Two airports with completely different roles - know which one you are using before you book anything. Safety requires awareness but should not deter you. And the food and culture are genuinely exceptional.

This is a big, complex, occasionally chaotic South American city with world-class restaurants, a tango culture that is still very much alive, and the kind of European-influenced architecture that catches you off guard when you turn a corner. I spent extended time here exploring Recoleta, Palermo, San Telmo, La Boca, and the centre, and came away thinking Buenos Aires deserves more time than most people give it.

Getting there

International flights arrive at Ezeiza (EZE), 45 minutes southwest of the city centre. This is a proper distance - not a quick transfer. Pre-book your transport or use the comparison in my Ezeiza transfer guide. For full routing options from your home country, see the Argentina country guide.

Regional flights (Santiago, Sao Paulo, Montevideo) and all domestic flights use Aeroparque (AEP), just 15 minutes north of the city centre. Much more convenient. See my Aeroparque transfer guide.

If you are connecting between international and domestic flights, you will need to transfer between EZE and AEP. Tienda Leon runs a shuttle between the two airports (about 80 minutes, ~$13 USD). Allow plenty of time.

Getting around

The Subte (metro) covers central areas well and is the fastest way to move between neighbourhoods. Six lines, trains every few minutes during the day. You will need a SUBE card - a rechargeable transit card that works on buses and the metro. Buy one at a kiosk or metro station as soon as you arrive (around ARS $490). You cannot pay cash on buses.

Buses are extensive but the route system takes time to learn. Google Maps handles Buenos Aires bus routing well.

Taxis are cheap but scams happen - rigged meters, counterfeit change, and circuitous routes. Uber and Cabify work well and give you app-based pricing, though they operate in a legal grey area. Drivers may ask you to sit in the front seat to avoid being identified as a rideshare.

Walking is excellent in Recoleta, Palermo, and San Telmo. Buenos Aires is a walkable city if you pick the right neighbourhood as your base.

From	Method	Journey time	Notes
Mendoza	Domestic flight	~2h	Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM. Wine country and gateway to the Andes.
Iguazu Falls	Domestic flight	~2h	Aerolineas Argentinas daily. No realistic overland alternative - the bus takes 18 hours.
Bariloche	Domestic flight	~2h 15m	Gateway to the Lake District and northern Patagonia. Flybondi budget option available.
Ushuaia	Domestic flight	~3h 30m	The end of the world. Patagonia gateway. Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM.
Santiago (Chile)	Flight from AEP	~2h 20m	LATAM operates this regional route from Aeroparque, not Ezeiza. Short hop across the Andes.

From

Method

Journey time

Notes

Mendoza

Domestic flight

~2h

Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM. Wine country and gateway to the Andes.

Iguazu Falls

Domestic flight

~2h

Aerolineas Argentinas daily. No realistic overland alternative - the bus takes 18 hours.

Bariloche

Domestic flight

~2h 15m

Gateway to the Lake District and northern Patagonia. Flybondi budget option available.

Ushuaia

Domestic flight

~3h 30m

The end of the world. Patagonia gateway. Aerolineas Argentinas and LATAM.

Santiago (Chile)

Flight from AEP

~2h 20m

LATAM operates this regional route from Aeroparque, not Ezeiza. Short hop across the Andes.

Neighbourhoods & hotels

Where you stay in Buenos Aires matters more than most cities. The rail network means everywhere is accessible, but your neighbourhood sets the tone for the trip. Select a neighbourhood below for detail and hotel recommendations.

Neighbourhood	Best for	Price level
Recoleta	First-timers, culture, dining	Mid-range to high	▶
Palermo	Nightlife, food, younger travellers	Mid-range	▶
San Telmo	Budget, tango, markets	Budget to mid-range	▶
Microcentro	Short stays, central location	Mid-range	▶

Staying in Recoleta

First-timers, culture, dining

Buenos Aires' most elegant neighbourhood. Grand Haussmann-style architecture, tree-lined avenues, world-class restaurants, and the famous cemetery where Eva Peron is buried. It feels more European than South American. Safe, walkable, and central enough to reach everywhere else easily. I stayed in Recoleta and it set the right tone for the trip - quiet streets at night, serious coffee in the morning, and the kind of restaurants where you want to linger.

Recommended hotels

Alvear Palace Hotel

The grand dame of Buenos Aires hotels. If the budget allows, this is the address. Impeccable service and a location that puts you in the heart of Recoleta.

Check availability →

Loi Suites Recoleta

Well-located boutique hotel with a rooftop pool. Smart rooms, good value for the neighbourhood. Walking distance to the cemetery and Avenida Alvear.

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Worth the trip

Colonia del Sacramento day trip

Day trip

A ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata to this UNESCO-listed Uruguayan town. Cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, and a laid-back atmosphere that contrasts brilliantly with Buenos Aires. Full day recommended.

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Recoleta Cemetery tour

Walking tour

More than just Eva Peron's tomb. A guided tour explains the extraordinary architecture and the stories behind the mausoleums. One of the most unusual cultural experiences in South America.

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La Boca walking tour

Walking tour

Caminito, the colourful houses, Boca Juniors stadium, and the working-class history behind the paint. Go with a guide and during the daytime. Not a neighbourhood for wandering alone after dark.

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Madero Tango show

Evening experience

Dinner and tango in Puerto Madero. The choreography is excellent and the food is better than most dinner-show combinations. A good introduction to tango without the tourist-trap feeling.

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Tigre Delta boat tour

Day trip

Just outside Buenos Aires, a network of rivers and islands with homes built on stilts. A boat tour shows you a completely different side of the region. The Puerto de Frutos market is worth a browse.

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Good to know

Safety

Buenos Aires is safe with normal urban awareness. Specific risks: taxi scams (rigged meters, counterfeit change), phone theft on buses, and the "mustard scam" (someone squirts condiment on you while an accomplice robs you). Do not wander La Boca after dark. Spread valuables across pockets.

Currency

The Argentine peso (ARS) is volatile. The "blue dollar" parallel exchange rate gives significantly more pesos per dollar than the official rate. Carry USD as backup. ATMs work but charge high fees and limit withdrawals. Credit cards are widely accepted in tourist areas.

SUBE card

Essential for buses and the Subte (metro). Buy at kiosks or metro stations for around ARS $490. Top up at kiosks or Subte stations. You cannot pay cash on buses. Board at the front door, tap your card, exit at the back.

Language

Spanish is essential outside tourist restaurants and hotels. Google Translate works well for menus and signs. Even basic Spanish goes a long way. English is spoken in upscale Recoleta and Palermo establishments.

Food

Steak is the headline, and it deserves it. La Cabrera in Palermo is the classic recommendation. But the Italian influence is strong - pizza, pasta, and gelato are everywhere and genuinely good. Empanadas for quick meals. Malbec by the glass.

Connectivity

Buy a local SIM or use an eSIM. Free WiFi is available in hotels and many cafes. Mobile data is useful for Uber/Cabify and Google Maps. Coverage is good in the city centre.

Getting there

Getting around

From within Argentina

Neighbourhoods & hotels

Staying in Recoleta

Worth the trip

More on Buenos Aires

Reviews

Good to know